Establishing a stand of grass requires proper planning and attention to detail. Perennial grasses differ in establishment requirements compared to annual grain crops. Nine keys to successful grass seeding and establishment are presented in the following narrative. Adhering to these guidelines will greatly improve your chances of a successful grass stand. 

Key #1 - Kill the Weeds First

Weeds compete with seedlings for moisture, light, space, and nutrients. At seeding time, there should be no actively growing weeds.

Key #2 - Use Adapted Species

Selecting species that are adapted for the conditions are you are planting in will make all the difference.  Soil, climate, elevation, and exposure all factor into species selection.  Adapted does not necessarily mean Native.  Native grasses are often very expense and in short supply.

Key #3 - Prepare a Good Seedbed

Correct firmness is when an adult footprint is only slightly visible on the prepared bed prior to the seeding operation. Most species should be planted at a shallow depth of ¼ to ½ inch. Larger seeds can be planted up to 1 inch deep. Seed to soil contact is imperative.  Seeds spread on top of vegetative residue will have much lower germination rates.

Key #4 - Seed at the Right Time

In Grand and Summit Counties, we really only have cool-season grasses.  Cool-season grasses can be planted when temperatures are cooler and day lengths shorter.  Accordingly, the three main planning windows for grasses in Middle Park are:

• Spring (late April-May right after snow melts off)
• Late Summer (mid July-early August during the summer monsoons)
• Late Fall (mid to end of October until first perennial snow)

Key #5 - Seed at the Proper Rate

On average, you should seed at a rate of 40 seeds per square foot. When broadcast seeding by hand, the best way to determine your personal seeding rate is to cut out a 12"x12" piece of cardboard.  Spray paint it with black paint.  Then, toss some seed onto the cardboard square.  If you count more than 40 seeds on that square, you are seeding too thick.  If there are not 40 seeds on that square, you need to seed a little heavier.

Key #6 - Cover Your Seeds

Seeds are lost when wind and water wash them away, or birds and small mammals eat them. You can cover your seeds by raking or dragging over your seeds with soil.  Mulch is also a good cover. Sawdust, straw, and peat moss are good options for mulch. If you are interseeding into existing grass, mulch may not be necessary.  When you look down at your mulched and seeded area, you should see about 50% mulch and 50% seed covered soil. If you apply it properly, you will not have to remove the mulch later; it will just break down and disappear.

Key #7 - Water, Water, Water

Seeds and seedlings need adequate moisture to germinate and grow.  Even if you are buying a drought-tolerant seed mix, your little seeds need ample water. Make sure to water lightly and frequently.  If you drench them too much, you risk washing them away.

Key #8 - To Fertilize or Not to Fertilize?

To fertilize or not to fertilize, that is the question.  The answer is, â€œIT DEPENDS”.   If you are seeding into an area that you know is weed free and does not have any weed seeds in it, then you are probably okay to fertilize at the same time as seeding.
 If, however, you are unsure that it is a weed free area, then you may want to wait to fertilize.  Fertilizer is non-specific, meaning that it will boost the growth of anything that it penetrates, including weeds.  Because weeds are genetically predisposed to rapid growth and establishment, fertilizer may give them an even bigger boost. 

Key #9 - Wait to Graze

If you are planning to graze the location you are seeding, it would be best to Wait one entire growing season prior to grazing any animals on the seeded site.